Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Water ponderings

We talked about watering systems for the garden last night at our meeting – and maybe at every meeting. The club has held classes about setting up drip irrigation systems. I have had drip systems myself, and still have a bunch of (expensive!) parts. The trouble with drip irrigation systems is a) all those little emitters and sprayers and lines are costly, b) putting together a system is fiddly, what with poking holes in lines and inserting bits and bobs, and some of us are impatient, and c) nearly all of us are on well water, which means low pressure and mineralized water that will clog tiny passages in emitters and sprinklers. So, maybe like you, I end up dragging hoses around my big garden, and cussing.

But there are a couple of options that I'm hoping to try this year to improve my watering, and cut down the cussing before the county air quality people notice the blue cloud over Elk and label my town "unhealthy for sensitive groups."

You can buy, for about $20, a filter that screws right on your garden hose and will "remove or reduce" calcium and iron particles that clog soaker hoses and drip lines. Has anybody tried one? They are supposed to last only about a season, but I think $20 a year might be a good investment. 


There are a couple of brands, and here are links for them. 

The Utah State University Extension Office has put together a plan for a DIY PVC watering system that is being used by lots of Type-A gardeners (smart, super-organized maybe even anal-retentive engineering types – you know who you are!) around the country. The system has been adapted for all kinds of operations, from market gardens to raised beds, is completely customizable to each garden, and is significantly less expensive than commercial drip systems. (Leave it to an extension office to make all the information available free to everyone, instead of patenting their ideas and selling kits for a bajillion dollars. Thank you, good people!)

The USU plan includes valves for control by zone or bed.


The problems I foresee with the DIY PVC are a) possible leaching of chemicals from the plastic (though PVC is approved for drinking water and is used from my pump house all through my house and to the hose bibs, it's hardly organic), b) while it is cheaper, it still ain't free, and c) while all the parts are bigger than drip bits, there is still some significant fiddling. On the plus side, I could use PVC for the main lines and then switch to soaker hoses and drip equipment in the beds. Also on the plus side, the PVC parts are not glued, and can be disassembled and put away at the end of each season, and reassembled differently next season.

You can read more about different adaptations of the system at these links – or just search "DIY PVC garden watering" on the web.
Modern Homemaker’s system
PVC nerd site (Yes, there are people who use PVC for everything. You didn't know?)

My plan is to hook up to the house spigot above the garden, cross the sidewalk somehow (we'll think about that later), then set up a main line down the slope through the middle of the garden. The main line will be three-quarter-inch PVC, interrupted with three-quarter-to-half-inch Ts leading to half-inch ball valves ($2.64 at Home Depot) at each bed. The ball valves allow precise control of the water to the half-inch line(s) running down each bed. (I imagine a 1960s model tripping down the center path of my lush, perfect garden in her high heels and making sweeping Vanna White gestures along the cabbage bed, then, with a flourish, opening the valve, causing sparkling water to drool on the happy green plants. She smiles. Her perfect teeth sparkle.)

 Imagining TV commercials is so much easier than doing the work. Sigh. 

PVC will degrade in sunlight over time, so I guess I could spray paint it brown, which would also make it less ugly, or just mound mulch over it. Or buy the new-fangled sun-resistant PVC, if it isn't too expensive.

Anyway, here's one more way to get water onto the garden. I've got the project on my list, just under the "put up fencing to create goat moat around the garden to repel deer." If that doesn't work, I'll have to get uglier goats.

Fellow gardeners, how do you water your gardens? And repel deer?



Su: 8 rocky acres, 2-year-old garden, a few tiny fruit trees and raspberries, small greenhouse made from 3 recycled patio doors; 2 Shetland sheep, 2 cashmere goats, 6 angora rabbits, 6 dogs.







2 comments:

  1. Admittedly drip irrigation can be frustrating but the savings in water and weeding have always made it worthwhile for me. As far as I know there is no such thing as free unless you can catch a disgusted drip irrigation newbie putting his/her trash out and raid the trash can before Sunshine Disposal shows up. However, good drip irrigation has a great amortization rate if properly cared for. I happen to like drip tape (aka T-tape) best because it is impossible to clog. (Check out www.groworganic.com to learn more about it.) I bought a 100 foot roll of 8" spacing several years ago and I haven't thrown out any of it except when Jim cuts it up with the tiller in Fall before I have pulled it up. (I would prefer to leave it in place but the tilling in of replacement nutrients before Winter is more important than my underlying laziness which I proudly own up to being part of who I am.) I attach the drip tape to a poly-propylene header and stretch it out the length of the row I am planting. I close off the end (something easier shown than explained) and attach a female hose connector to one end of the poly-pipe and a male connector to the other end to close it off. Now I can hook up the hose and all I have to do is turn the water on and off as needed.

    Sometimes, however, the T-tape (aka drip tape) is not the most efficient. In that case I use only poly-pipe for the header and rows, and use a specific sprayer that I get through Dripworks online (www.dripworks.com). This set-up works well for watering specific plants like my Blueberries and Blackberries but not the weeds in between. These plants have wide, shallow root systems so I can adjust the width of the area watered as the plants grow. This is a nearly indestructible system unless you turn your grandson loose with the fire breathing weed destroyer (how fast can plastic melt) or your favorite tool is a spading fork (dang the soil is solid right there [oops, get out the repair kit].)

    Finally, the last option for me is weep hose but to use it you also need a lot of mulch (like 8-12 inches deep) to cover it and around the plants to keep the weed seeds from germinating. I have found this method to work well for lettuce, carrots, beets, turnips, and potatoes to water more evenly and with less water wasted than overhead water.

    Thank you Su for the reference to Utah State University's PVC design (yes, I am a PVC nerd.) It will be something new to try at Higher Ground Farm.

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  2. Ah ha! Revealed as a PVC nerd!

    T-tape sounds really good - no poking holes in pipe and inserting emitters, for hours and hours. And it connects right up to hoses! If I buy anything new, I'll get some of that.

    Running poly pipe to berry patches away from the general garden is something I should try, too. Usually I carry buckets, which means everything goes without, more that it should.

    You been gardening there for many years, yes? Sounds like you've got it together.

    I'm torn on the flame thrower/weed burner. Seems crazy to turn civilians loose with one – but sounds like a whole lot of fun. Whhoooooosh!

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